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Sip & Savour: The Ultimate Guide to Yukon’s Craft Beer & Food Scene

Wild game, northern berries, and award-winning breweries — where to eat and drink.

Food & Drink · 6 min read
Sip & Savour: The Ultimate Guide to Yukon’s Craft Beer & Food Scene
Northern ingredients — char, berries, and wild game — on a Whitehorse table.

For a territory of fewer than fifty thousand people, the Yukon eats and drinks remarkably well. The reason is partly geography and partly attitude. The land and water here are still clean and productive enough to fill a genuinely wild pantry, and a community this small and this remote has learned to make things itself rather than wait for them to arrive from the south. The result is a food-and-drink culture that punches far above its weight, rooted in place and quietly proud of it.

From the water

Fish is at the heart of northern eating. Arctic char, with its rich pink flesh, is the signature catch, prized for a flavour somewhere between salmon and trout. Wild salmon run the rivers, lake trout and whitefish come from cold clear lakes, and — surprisingly for a landlocked territory — halibut appears on many menus, trucked and flown up from the coast and embraced as though it were local. Order char at least once while you are here; simply grilled or cured, it tastes like the place it comes from.

From the land

Wild berries and fireweed ripen across the territory in late summer.
Wild berries and fireweed ripen across the territory in late summer.

Game features heavily, both hunted and farmed. Bison and elk turn up as steaks, sausages, and burgers, muskox appears occasionally as a rare delicacy, and these lean, clean-tasting meats reward a cook who treats them gently. Around them grows a whole edible landscape: wild cranberries, blueberries, and cloudberries; fireweed, whose bright petals become a delicate jelly; spruce tips, harvested in spring for syrups and seasonings; and birch, tapped like a maple to make a dark, savoury syrup that is one of the North’s great souvenirs.

The drink scene

Whitehorse is the surprising engine of the territory’s drink culture. Yukon Brewing has been making beer and, more recently, its acclaimed Two Brewers single-malt whisky here for decades, earning national and international awards that seem improbable for a brewery this far north. Winterlong Brewing adds a modern craft edge with a rotating line of small-batch beers. On the softer side, roasters like Bean North turn out coffee on the road toward Takhini, and foragers brew chaga — a woody fungus that grows on birch trees — into an earthy, healthful tea.

Where to eat

Whitehorse anchors a food-and-drink scene far larger than its size suggests.
Whitehorse anchors a food-and-drink scene far larger than its size suggests.

You will find the widest range of restaurants in Whitehorse, from casual cafes and food trucks to ambitious kitchens that build their menus around local fish, game, and produce in season. Dawson City, small as it is, sustains a lively eating and drinking scene of its own, especially in summer. Beyond the towns, lodges and roadhouses feed travellers hearty, unfussy meals, and the quality of the ingredients often makes up for any lack of pretension. Ask locals where they eat; in a place this small, the good spots are no secret.

Markets and makers

To taste the Yukon at its most direct, find a market. The Fireweed Community Market in Whitehorse gathers growers, foragers, bakers, and makers through the warmer months, and it is the best single place to meet the people behind the food and to fill a bag with things you cannot buy anywhere else. Farm stands and small producers dot the roads around the capital, a reminder that even at this latitude, with its short but intense growing season under nearly endless summer light, people coax an astonishing amount from the ground.

What to take home

The Yukon makes for excellent edible souvenirs. Fireweed jelly, birch syrup, spruce-tip products, and bags of dried chaga travel well and carry the taste of the territory home with you. A bottle of Two Brewers whisky makes a serious gift. And if you have room, a jar of wild-berry jam from a market stall will outlast the trip and, spread on toast on a grey morning months later, bring the whole North rushing back.

Eating with the seasons

The Yukon’s table changes sharply through the year. Late summer and early autumn are the abundant season, when berries, garden vegetables, and fresh fish are everywhere and markets overflow. Winter leans on preserved, smoked, and hearty fare — the food of a place that has always had to plan ahead. Whenever you come, eat what is in front of you and ask where it came from. In the Yukon, the answer is usually short, specific, and just up the road, and that closeness is exactly what makes eating here feel so different from eating anywhere else.